Peptides for Skin Care: Are They Worth It

Mirror, Mirror on the Wall

The everlasting search for the best products and ingredients in the skincare industry has brought us to peptides. Since the word has gotten out that peptides might offer our skin everything that makes it fresh and youthful, they can be found in any cosmetic product related to skin health and appearance. 

Today, the beauty market is flooded with products claiming peptides as one of the main ingredients. Let us learn why.

Learning the Ropes

What are these omnipresent substances called peptides? They are short chains of amino acids (up to around 50) that are the building blocks for proteins in the skin. They are naturally found in the body or can be synthetically manufactured in the laboratory. 

Generally, the main characteristic of naturally occurring peptides is that they stimulate the pituitary gland to produce growth hormones. Growth hormones are essential for making skin elastic, fresh, and youthful. Their downside is that, as we age, the level of natural growth hormone in the body starts to decline, so every possible way to stimulate their levels is of utmost importance to preserve skin quality and youthful appearance. This is where peptides might be able to assist. 

All the Potential

What are peptides used for in skin care? Could just about any peptide help the skin rejuvenate or getting there is a bit more complicated? 

Since peptides are a natural part of our bodies, they are versatile and differ in functions and benefits. So far, the groups of peptides that have been researched for their benefits on the skin are: 

Carrier Peptides

Their superpower trait is in their name. These short chains of amino acids transport nutrients effectively into the skin. The most commonly researched are copper peptides for collagen production and skin regeneration. They are often found in serums, creams, and treatments that in their descriptions claim to rejuvenate the skin and reduce fine lines, crow’s feet, and wrinkles. Being a versatile group of peptides, some carrier peptides are researched to promote skin hydration and improve the skin’s barrier function. Another group of carrier peptides might assist in transporting ingredients to even out hyperpigmented skin tone.

Enzyme-Inhibiting Peptides

Enzyme-inhibiting peptides are currently being designed to inhibit specific enzymes in the body and modulate biological processes related to skin health and its overall function. These peptides possibly inhibit the enzymes that cause excessive melanin production and, as a result, have effective skin-lightening properties. Some are designed to target specific enzymes that break down collagen and elastin.

Neurotransmitter-Inhibiting Peptides 

Their job in the skin care industry could be to help modulate the activity of neurotransmitters, chemicals that transmit signals between nerve cells. By blocking the release or action of neurotransmitters that stimulate muscle contractions, they might potentially reduce the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines and prevent or slow down the development of new ones by inhibiting muscle contractions. 

This effect would be similar to botulinum toxin, with subtler results depending on skin type and specific formulation of the product that contains them. Minimizing the appearance of dynamic wrinkles, such as crow’s feet and forehead lines, can lead to a smoother skin texture and wrinkle formation over time, just the desired effect we would like to get from a peptide. 

Some of the skincare peptides that belong to this category are: 

• Snap 8 – a synthetic peptide with plenty of potential, including treating facial wrinkles. While Snap 8 has shown promise in several preclinical studies, more research is needed to fully understand its potential uses.
• Argireline – falling under the umbrella of peptides researched for wrinkle-fighting and anti-aging properties. It is one of the best peptides for fighting against expression wrinkles.
• AHK peptide – suggested to minimize muscle contractions, decreasing and inhibiting wrinkling along the skin surface, and is often used in skincare to help fight dynamic wrinkles. 

Antimicrobial Peptides 

Their potent antimicrobial properties possibly allow them to reduce the amount of damaging bacteria on the skin surface and in the pores. Their antimicrobial properties are studied to prevent infections in minor wounds and support faster healing. With their anti-inflammatory properties, they could promote a calmer complexion. Promoting a healthy microbiome on the skin could make them suitable for treating conditions like acne, rosacea, or eczema. 

Peptides that can have strong antifungal and hemolytic activities, and help balance out the skin complexion are lipopeptides. 

Enzyme-Inhibiting Peptides

Enzyme-inhibiting peptides are currently being designed to inhibit specific enzymes in the body, often to prevent biological processes related to skin health issues such as inflammation or collagen breakdown. 

Peptides that could block the enzymes for hyperpigmentation would inadvertently promote a more even skin tone by preventing excessive melanin production. Overall, enzyme-inhibiting peptides are valuable for improving skin texture, tone, and more radiant complexion.

Decapeptide-12 research has shown it can address various skin concerns, including hyperpigmentation and uneven skin tone, and potentially lead to a brighter complexion.

Signal Peptides 

These peptides signal parts of the body to produce more collagen and elastin within the skin. Even though natural sources of peptides for skin care and collagen, can be taken through a diet of animal and marine origin (meat, fish), there are synthetically made ones as well.

Collagen is a protein vital for the structure, and elasticity of various tissues in the human body constituting approximately 30% of the total protein mass. Collagen peptides are derived from collagen through enzymatic hydrolysis – the process of breaking down large collagen molecules into smaller peptides, resulting in their low molecular weight. The low molecular weight allows for rapid digestion and absorption in the gastrointestinal tract, and efficient delivery of amino acids to the skin, joints, bones, and other connective tissues.  

Collagen peptides are researched to enhance skin hydration, elasticity, and firmness, reducing the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines. They are often used in supplements because they are typically odorless and tasteless, making them easy to include in various recipes. 

BPC-157 has been shown to increase the production of collagen, an essential protein that supports the structure and health of various tissues in the body, such as skin. It can also address sagging skin and wrinkles to help you maintain a more youthful and vibrant look.

GHK-Cu for anti-aging cosmetics has been extensively researched. When applied to the skin, GHK-Cu can cause anti-aging and anti-wrinkle activity.

Ipamorelin is renowned for its natural anti-aging abilities. It can help you achieve a more youthful appearance by increasing collagen production and improving cell repair.

Matrixyl, known scientifically as Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4 or Palmitoyl-Pentapeptide-3, is a peptide used in skincare products to boost the natural production of collagen and elastin, leading to a reduction in wrinkles and improved skin firmness​​​​. Matrixyl aids in repairing skin damage and improving texture​​​​.

Tripeptide-29 is a synthetic, highly purified peptide that, applied to the skin, strengthens the skin’s supportive elements. This improves the uneven texture of the skin and the look of fine lines and also helps reverse a dehydrated appearance.

Precautions 

Peptides for skin care side effects could be skin sensitivity, rash, and itching, even though they are extremely beneficial to the skin, and are generally well tolerated. 

Final Thoughts

In conclusion, peptides offer a promising frontier in skincare, with a variety of types each potentially bringing unique benefits. 

Through ongoing research, scientists are gaining a clearer understanding of how these powerful amino acid chains can support skin health. 

However, as exciting as the possibilities are, it’s important to remember that peptides available outside of cosmetics remain research-grade and not approved for personal skincare use. 

References:

1. Seveljević-Jaran D, Cuzić S, Dominis-Kramarić M. Accelerated healing of excisional skin wounds by PL 14736 in alloxan-hyperglycemic rats. Skin pharmacology and physiology. 2006; 19(5):266-74.

2. Growth hormone-releasing peptides. Ghigo E, Arvat E, Muccioli G, Camanni F. Eur J Endocrinol. 1997 

3. Bhargava, R., & Bhargava, K. (2010). A review of current and potential therapies for the treatment of facial wrinkles. Dermatologic Therapy, 23(4), 275-282.

4. Pickart l; Margolina A. GHK-Copper Peptide in Skin Remodeling and Anti-Aging. SOFW-Journal | 136 | 6-2010.

5. Gul, NY; Topal, A; Cangul, IT; Yanik, K (2008). “The effects of topical tripeptide copper complex and helium-neon laser on wound healing in rabbits”. Vet Dermatol. 19 (1): 7–14. doi:10.1111/j.1365-3164.2007.00647.x.

6. Baumann L. Antiaging Ingredients in Ch. 37 of Baumann’s Cosmetic Dermatology Ed 3. (McGraw Hill 2022)

7. Baumann, L. Cosmeceuticals and Cosmetic Ingredients (McGraw Hill 2015)

8. Nakhate P. H., Yadav V. K., Pathak A. N. A Review on Daptomycin; the first US-FDA approved. Lipopeptide antibiotics. Journal of Scientific and Innovative Research. 2013;2(5):970–980.

9.Hill J, et al., “Lipopeptides as antibacterial agents”, published 28 February 2002, assigned to Cubist Pharmaceuticals Inc